Question by Samann: How to use my light meter?
I recently received a light meter and could use an tips or links about using a light meter. I use a Digital Rebel one studio light, but its just a hobby, I’m just a beginner…
Best answer:
Answer by DLeigh919
Did you recieve a handheld light meter? If so, and if possible, I recommend doing a spot check for light readings. Meaning – Hold light meter infront of subject, pointed TOWARDS where your camera will be to take the reading. That way the reading is more accurate than the reflective reading from your in-camera meter.
What do you think? Answer below!
Depending on the meter , you just place the meter on the higlights of the subject that you are going to photograph , make sure that the meter is next to the subject and aiming to the camera , push the button get the reading and then set your camera according to the reading of the meter.
I would highly recommend you read Henry Horenstien’s excellent books on beginning black and white photography. Obviously, the developing portions do not apply but his instructions are excellent for the use of a light meter and the zone system.
An incident meter is a great help for any photographer. Put the dome hemisphere on-this is what you need for incident readings. Then set your ISO and desired shutter speed (You want at least 1/125 to stop action. Next look at what you are going to photograph. Find the shadow in which you want some detail. Set the light meter so it is in this shadow. Point it at the camera, and press the button. The meter will give you an ƒ number reading, say for example’s sake 5.6. This is the deepest significant shadow. If you set the lens to 5.6, you will effectively turn that shadow grey-ie a midtone. The meter sees the whole world as 18% gray- to keep it a shadow you need to set the lens two stops faster, ie
ƒ 11. If the highlight is not too bright, it should fall into place.
The range of light is an issue for both film and digital photography.
If your shadow is 5.6, the midtones are 11 and the highlights 22, you have a 5 stop range (5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22.) More often, the range is much larger. Say the shadow is ƒ 2 and the highlight is
ƒ64, then the range is 10 stops (2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 64). Count on your fingers! You now have to decide which end of the range you are going to give up. This is when you choose where the shadow is going to fall in this range and expose two stops faster.
Sometimes pros shoot one image for the shadows and one for the highlights and composite them in photoshop. NOTHING wrong with that-especially as we do not have the ability to “develop” for contrast control.
I highly recommend, in fact cannot stress enough, that you get a good book that covers light meters and practice, practice. practice.
Everyone’s equipment is slightly different-your results will vary from mine or anyone else’s. Read Ansel Adam’s work on the Zone system – Horenstein also covers it in an excellent book on Photography titled “Photography – Revised Edition” available thru amazon.com. It is expensive, but he covers everything from traditional b/w, color and digital photography. It is in fact the only book you ever really need buy on the topic. I used this book as a textbook when I taught basic b/w photo.
Good luck, have fun and shoot, shoot shoot